Empúries

Empuries is one of the most historically remarkable archaeological sites in all of Spain, a place where the Greek and Roman civilisations both left substantial physical traces on the Costa Brava coastline of Catalonia. Founded as a Greek trading colony called Emporion around 575 BC, later developed into a Roman city, and now preserved as a museum site overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Empuries offers visitors a rare opportunity to walk through two millennia of Mediterranean civilisation in a setting of extraordinary natural beauty.

History and Significance

The Greek colonists from Massalia (modern Marseille) established a trading post here in the late sixth century BC, choosing the site for its protected harbour and proximity to indigenous Iberian populations with whom they could trade. The settlement grew into a prosperous polis and eventually expanded from its small island origin to the mainland, where the Greek city Neapolis developed. At the same time the Romans, who first landed here during the Second Punic War against Carthage in 218 BC, established their own military camp and later a separate Roman city adjacent to the Greek settlement.

The coexistence of Greek and Roman cities side by side on the same promontory is extraordinarily rare in the archaeological record. Excavations beginning in the early twentieth century have uncovered temples, mosaic floors, forum remains, baths, and domestic structures that together provide an unparalleled window into ancient Mediterranean urban life over a period of nearly a thousand years.

• Founded as Greek colony Emporion around 575 BC
• Rare site with both Greek Neapolis and Roman city remains side by side
• Exceptional mosaic floors including the famous Mosaic of Sacrifice
• Temple of Asklepios (god of medicine) with original cult statue fragment
• Stunning Mediterranean coastal setting overlooking a beautiful beach

What to See and Experience

The site is divided into the Greek Neapolis and the larger Roman city. The Greek sector contains the remains of the Agora, temples dedicated to Asklepios and Zeus Serapis, a stoa (covered walkway), and numerous residential and commercial buildings. The mosaic floors that survive here are particularly impressive, including the famous Mosaic of the Sacrifice of Iphigenia.

The Roman city covers a much larger area and contains the forum, commercial buildings, private houses with their original mosaic floors, and the remains of a substantial urban grid. The on-site Museu d’Arqueologia houses the finest finds from the excavations, including the cult statue of Asklepios, Greek ceramics, Roman bronzes, and jewellery.

Practical Information

• Entry: EUR 6 adults; free first Sunday of month
• Hours: June-September daily 10am-8pm; October-May daily 10am-6pm
• Guided tours: Available; check museum website for schedule
• Location: 2km from L’Escala town; parking available at site
• Combined ticket: Includes access to Roman city, Greek Neapolis, and museum

Local Insights

• Visit in the morning to avoid the midday heat and tour groups; the ruins are open and exposed
• The beach adjacent to the site is one of the most beautiful on the Costa Brava – bring a swimsuit
• The museum is excellent and should not be rushed – allow an hour for it
• L’Escala town 2km away has superb seafood restaurants and is famous for its anchovies
• The site is very exposed – bring sun protection, water, and comfortable walking shoes

Getting There

• By car: From Girona (45 min) or Figueres (30 min) via AP-7 then local roads to L’Escala
• Bus: SARFA buses from Girona and Figueres to L’Escala; local bus or taxi 2km to site
• From Barcelona: 2.5 hours by car via AP-7 north; or train to Figueres then bus